Manufacture meets Manufacture; The creation of the perfect combination!

Posted by Martin Green 
avatar Manufacture meets Manufacture; The creation of the perfect combination!
May 27, 2012 04:54AM
If you truly want to count these days as a high-end watch brand, you have to be a “Manufacture”. This elegant word means that you make the majority of the watch, especially the movements, yourself. However, there is also another part of the watch industry in which the term Manufacture is very important; watch straps!

One of those watch strap Manufactures is located in the historic city of Besançon. Located in France, but very close to the Swiss border, the town has been on the UNESCO world heritage list since 2008, and for good reason. Not only is it beautifully located around a curve in the Doubs River, it’s history also dates back to the Roman Empire and many remains of this era can still be found in the city.


The city of Besançon

Yet, Besançon has never been a city to dwell on the past. Not only does it house a modern university, but also a very modern business district. A lot of companies specialized in Bio- and Microtechnology can be found here, as well as several companies in telecommunications. Nevertheless, it is also a major watchmaking city. Not only are many suppliers of the Swiss watchmaking industry located here, also some brands are located here. The most famous is most likely LIP, which was not only ground breaking in terms of movements, but also in design. No wonder that Manufacture Jean-Rousseau also calls Besançon it is home!

So what makes Jean-Rousseau a watch strap Manufacture? Well, not only do the make the complete strap in house, they also have their own tannery! This is quite unique, but it enables them to control the colors and color quality of their skins to the last detail. This not only fully ensures that they will stay the intended color for a long time and can endure wear and tear, but also that virtually any color is possible.


Jean-Rousseau's boutique on Rue Duphot in Paris

Often companies like this only serve the famous watch brands. Jean-Rousseau does this too, but also offers individual customers like you and me the option to order a custom made strap from them. This can be done through their website, or their boutiques in either Paris or Tokyo. A great opportunity to get the quality of strap from a big watch brand yet tailored to your individual needs.

A tailor made strap is also exactly what they made for this 1969 Piaget. This Piaget is not the easiest watch to make a strap for; the difficulty lies in the height of it, or actually the lack off. Inside the yellow gold Clous-de-Paris case ticks caliber 12PC1. This is the date version of the record-breaking caliber 12P, for many years the worlds thinnest automatic movement. A watch with such a slim profile asks for an equally slim strap. But that is not all.


Manufacture on Manufacture; Piaget on Jean-Rousseau

To pay tribute to the era in which the watch was made, the choice of the top leather was not made in favor of alligator, stingray or another popular leather sort in today’s watchmaking. Although it would without a doubt go well with the watch, it would be too modern of a choice. Instead, a beautiful, vintage leather style was chosen; Caiman flank in matt black.


The beautiful pattern of the Caiman flank

To completely stay in the style of the late 1960’s the strap had to be unstitched, yet to emphasize the high quality of both the strap as well as the watch, it was requested to be made “Remborde”. This means that the upper leather also covers the sides of the strap. It asks for more skill to make such a strap, especially when it is unstitched and even more so when it has to be as thin as this strap!


A stunning detail for Connoisseurs; the "Remborde" edges on this strap

To make matters even more complicated was there a distinct request for the lining. Normally this is calf, which functions great, but there is another option; sharkskin.


Caiman flank outside with shark skin inside

Sharkskin is not only more moist resistance; it can also handle perspiration better. The natural texture of the sharkskin will also ensure that the watch stays into plays, even when the strap is not closed as tight as possible. In the beginning, it will feel a bit stiff but after a day or two wearing it, it will perfectly adapt to your wrist and you might never want to go back to a calfskin lining.


The complication is ultra-slim!

All together is the strap on this Piaget now about as technically advanced as its movement was in the 1960’s. Requiring not only expert knowledge of the product itself but also superb craftsmanship to make it a reality. An ultra-thin Manufacture strap for and ultra-thin Manufacture watch; the perfect combination!


Martin Green
-----------------------
Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online

avatar
Geo
The Piaget with that black strap looks really good!
May 28, 2012 03:13AM
and without stitching it looks very dressy.
Very good idea.

Thanks for the article Martin.
Jean Rouseau is indeed a great atelier to have a strap made, that I only found out recently.
I was not aware about their large facilities in Besançon and only have experience with
their Boutique in Paris.
Rumor goes that there will be another Boutique in London soon.

Six months ago I ordered two straps from the Boutique and they came out very nicely.





I was looking for Alligator with a smaller scale, since the Santos Dumont and the Tank Chinoise
both are pretty small watches. Most watch brands only have the larger scale in their collection.
Lizard was too fine and this Crocodile flank that Jean Rousseau advised was really good.
Their collection in different leathers and colors is enormous.



I always ask to have the strap made as small as possible, since I dislike the long part
on the inside of the buckle.

When I was in the Boutique I also noticed that Jean Rousseau makes more than watch straps.
Wallets, belts and iPhone cases in the same leather as your watch strap, are a very nice possibility.

GEO


CARTIER forum moderator
-----------------------------------------------------
[www.troisanneaux.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2012 03:26AM by Geo.
Interesting article...
May 29, 2012 04:49PM
Hi Martin,

First that vintage Piaget with the Clous-de-Paris case is just beautiful !!!

I very much enjoyed learning about the issues you had to consider picking out strap for this very slim watch. I never considered the idea that with such a slim case one also has to find an appropriately slim strap. I like the lack of stitching on the sides of the strap. In addition, I have never seen a watch strap that was as you described Remborde. It looks far more finished having the inside lined with the same skin as the exterior. I only have a few watches on straps, but that is something I would consider opting for in the future.

Best regards,
Dino
avatar The importance of a strap
June 02, 2012 03:10AM
Hi Dino,

Thanks for your nice comments and compliments. This Piaget is one of my absolute favorites, especially since the build quality is extremely high and the accuracy of the ultra-slim, automatic movement is even after half a century still spot on, and sturdy enough to wear daily.

I have to admit that I have developed a bit of a strap fetish over the years. My straps simply have to be perfect, so custom made is often the only way to go. Interesting is that this often turns out cheaper then go for a high end strap from a brand. With this strap everybody really had to push the envelope to make it, but the result is exactly the way I wanted it down to the last detail.

Martin Green
-----------------------
Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online
avatar Cartier delight!
June 02, 2012 03:16AM
What a stunning understatement become both Cartier's with these straps! I agree that smaller scales where indeed the way to go. I love it that you can simply sit down with the person who makes your strap and discuss all the details....or of course order convenient online!

Martin Green
-----------------------
Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online
avatar
Geo
Both ways work well
June 02, 2012 09:53AM
These two straps for the Cartier watches I ordered in the Boutique and the leathers were selected with the staff.
When you talk to them in person, you immediately notice that they understand their business very well,
give very good advice, know where we care for and understand our different questions.

On the other hand when you do know exactly what you need, ordering on line works well too.
I just tried it last week, had to get used to their website for a few minutes, but then it's easy and you can
order exactly what you want, any color, any leather, any stitching and stitching color.
As soon as my strap is back I will post it for you Martin.

GEO

CARTIER forum moderator
-----------------------------------------------------
[www.troisanneaux.com]
avatar
Geo
New strap arrived!
June 11, 2012 06:48AM
My new strap from Jean Rousseau arrived and I think it's a perfect match for
the Santos Dumont with it's salmon colored dial.



I just can't find my screw driver, that's why it's not attached yet.

The leather is calf and I had seen this for the first time on a Crash watch
that one of my friends had made by Jean Rousseau.
The stitching is off white or beige.



These more old fashioned leathers, work very well with smaller watches.

GEO


CARTIER forum moderator
-----------------------------------------------------
[www.troisanneaux.com]
Jean Rousseau
June 11, 2012 09:56AM
You guys are so incredibly knowledgeable and well connected in the world of watch-making it makes me feel inadequate. GEO told me about JR recently and now that I know about their 'manufacture' status, I will definitely pay them a visit when I am in Paris in August! I knew about ABP and Camille Fournet only, until now. GEO's box calf books stunning. Just like the Hermes' box calf. I love the idea of a shark skin lining, because in summer my sweat stains the calf lining too much. Good idea all in all! Well done. Here is my own 2 cents' worth of contribution -
First the order from Cartier (a dark brown matt alligator)

Then put it onto my XL

et voila!
I still prefer large scales to small scales, but I am quite old fashioned!
Now that I know about JR, my next strap will have to be non-stitched.
Enjoy the week ahead.
Beautiful strap on your Tank XL
June 11, 2012 11:48AM
It really changes the look of the XL. Mine is still on the original black strap. I think the dark brown is really sharp looking with the rose gold. I might try a similar color on one of my VC's. Its on a honey color strap, that I find a bit too light in color. The matte dark brown looks fantastic.

Thanks for sharing a photo.
Best regards,
Dino
avatar
Geo
Brown on pink
June 12, 2012 01:07AM
Hi Sang, the brown croc looks very good on your pink gold Tank.
For me this brown leather works better on pink gold, than the original black.
Really good looking watch!

GEO

CARTIER forum moderator
-----------------------------------------------------
[www.troisanneaux.com]
avatar Stunning twice!
June 12, 2012 07:13AM
Hi Geo,

Nice addition to your collection! I truly love the combination of colors with the Santos! The Crash is.....the Crash!! Cartier really need to do a re-edition of it!

Martin Green
-----------------------
Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online
avatar Tank XL
June 12, 2012 08:18AM
Hi Sang,

What does that Tank XL look great on you! Amazingly rich watch, especially with this brown strap! A true winner in my book!

Please don't feel inadequate about our knowledge or connections, because I strongly believe that you are just being modest. smiling smiley
Connections some time just happen....a couple of years ago I needed a technically advanced strap for my Bertolucci. The company was sold by it's original owner and couldn't provide me with the strap I needed. So I went on a quest to not only find somebody who could make the strap I wanted but also for a reasonable price. I succeeded at both at Jean Rousseau and have been a customer ever since. The knowledge I got on this subject was also generously shared by the people at Jean Rousseau.

Please let me know what you think of them when you visit them in August!

Martin Green
-----------------------
Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online