A little story about Zenith

Dear revolution-ist,
we all know very well that in the 70's the swiss watch industry was in troubled waters.
We also know that few visionary were able to revive then that industry, keeping their faith in the value of mechanical watches and the heritage behind that.

There is a little story, i think not much known, which can show how much not only big managers and famous watchmakers but also simple people gave their contribution to let the watch industry and in particular some brands a chance to reborn.

In 1975 the Zenith Radio Corporation, a brand that took over the Zenith brand 4 years before, decided to stop the mechanical watch production in favour of quartz watches.
Following this decision, and in order to raise funds, the management was going to sell all the machines used to make watches, all calibers, all tools. These items should have been sold per tons, allowing Zenith to survive the quartz crisis.

After having repeatedly asked to the management to re-think about this decision, without success, a Zenith watchmakers named Charles Vermot started to collect, label, classify tools, machines, calibers, taking note of production processes. He did this at his own risk, technically speaking he "stole" all these items...But for a good reason and with a dream in mind.

Many years later, when Zenith brand reapperared in the mechanical watch industry, all these machinery re-appeared too allowing the brand to restart the production of the El Primero caliber without further investment.
So hats off to Mr. Vermot !

Ciao from Milano,
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Zenith did not start up the production of the El Primero on their own accord but because they got a very large order for this movement. Source of this order was a brand that almost benefited from the quartz-crisis. This brand was Ebel. Ebel was one of the Swiss brands that had it’s own production of quartz-movements. Ebel did not only used those for their own watches but also for the Cartier’s it produced. In those days Cartier was quite recently united into one firm, while before it was basicly three companies; Cartier New York, Cartier London and of course Cartier Paris. Cartier had a lot of heritage, magnificent designs, but was lacking production facility. Ebel could prodive this, and so in the early days of the agreement (which I believe lasted well into the 1990’s) Ebel made 100% of all Cartier watches. This also meant that for instant the very popular Must de Cartier Tank’s where powered by an Ebel manufacture quartz movement. However, Ebel also did not neglected the mechnical side of it’s watches but could not produce a mechanical chronograph herself. That’s why they started looking at what would be the best option within the industry. They ended up at Zenith and placed a large order for the El Primero. Zenith was about to decline the order when the watchmaker you mentioned came forward and saved the day for this wonderful movement!

Martin Green
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Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online

Ciao Martin,
thank you for this very instructional addition, I was not aware of the relationship between Zenith and Ebel, and Ebel and Cartier !!

It is always interesting to learn about how many brands we admire are or were linked each other...

Bye from Italy,
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Thanks for the info.

There's also a very nice 'pictorial' story about the Zenith watchmaking factory and its old tools/equipment by James Dowling titled "The Attic, a trip into watchmaking history".

You can read it here:
[justwatchingwithjamesdowling.blogspot.com]

Regards,
Jack Freedman

but most people don't realize it.
The quartz revolution hit them hard and when they were bought by the American Zenith Radio corp, it went completely wrong
Good that LVMH bought them
Mr Nataf did good things but imo he made a big mistake called the Defy.
Now since 2-3 years the new CEO (Dufour) will bring the watch to the level is deserves
I'm sure Mr Dufour will succeed

Zenith is a TOP brand with an amazing history

they made pilot watches before IWC made them, they made more than 500 yes FIVE HUNDRED inhouse calibers.

And today you still can buy the legendary El Primero , 50% cheaper than a similar inhouse chrono from Rolex, IWC, JLC, Panerai ....
they are BY FAR the most underappreciated brand out there

Within a few years , if Mr Dufour succeeds people will realize that they should have bought more Zeniths in 2012 :-) .... they won't stay that cheap


If you read french , follow this link [sites.google.com]

otherwise, buy this book ---> Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865 (Manfred Rossler)
Not to expensive and a VERY, VERY good book

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For watch pictures : [www.bruno-wristwatches.blogspot.com]

Ciao Bruno,
thank you for the link, well...ehm...Actually i don't speak french, but i can understand it enough to read that article

I completely agree with you about the fact that Zenith is one of the most underrated brands out there.
My Class Elite reminds me this each time i have it on the wrist, and honestly i regret that when i had to make a choice between a Chronomaster full calendar and another watch, i went for the other watch....But sooner or later.... it will be mine, i still have not in my collection a 36K vph !



I think that Mr. Nataf contribution to Zenith has been huge...I would not call the Defy series a mistake, but simply a marketing move towards new markets. For sure, it was light years away from the Zenith heritage we love....


bye from Milano,
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What a great Zenith you have! I also agree with your views on Nataf. He might have overplayed his hand in the end, but he did put Zenith back on the map and in the eye of the general public. Before Nataf, Zenith was way to modest and low profile of a brand. Personally I like the new lines of Zenith although sometimes I wish there was still a little bit more of Nataf's unmodest madness in it.

Martin Green
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Contributing Writer
Moderator
Revolution Online

Dear Martin, thanks for your kind words.
Actually it is my preferred but i don't wear it as much as i should...I am always a bit worried to knock it.
By other hand it is so classic that it deserves to be used in very special occasions only...

Bye,
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