An interview with Stefano Macaluso, GP General Manager

Dear Revolutionists,
As maybe some of you remember, I have often underlined how the GP forum here is a bit less filled of news compared to other brand forums on Revo-online.
Being me a fan of the brand, and having had the chance to keep in touch with some GP manager in the past, I had the crazy idea to propose a “virtual interview”, in order to fill this apparent gap of information on Girard-Perregaux.
My proposal was surprisingly accepted by GP management, so I wrote a list of questions I had in mind since some time, send them to GP and after a while I received the feedback you can read here below.
Before you start to read, allow me to say a big thank you to Mr. Stefano Macaluso and his team for their confidence in answering.
To me this is the proof that even if sometimes the world of high watchmaking appears far, it actually is not.


During the last months PPR Luxury Group became the majority shareholder of Sowind Group (which includes JEANRICHARD and GP). What can you say about the influence that becoming part of a huge luxury group will have on Sowind Group and especially on GP ?

This strategic decision on our part does not affect the strategy of the Sowind Group and its brands. Girard-Perregaux in particular is one of the most respected manufactures in the history and the world of Haute Horlogerie and will remain true to our incredible legacy and rich DNA. Yet, it gives the means to maximise their potential for growth and innovation by leaning on a major luxury player who can help us with its knowledge in retail networks for instance. We had often discussed this option with my father. Sowind is a family business joining a Group which is also family-run and whose DNA is based on entrepreneurial culture. Last, brands are at the heart of PPR’s operation and enjoy broad autonomy, essential to ensure their identity and creative expression.

Even if in the past year several new watches were released by GP, we haven’t heard any major technical news lately.
I am thinking in particular of the very innovative Constant Escapment. Since its presentation no further news were released.
Can you tell us more, both on development side (prototypes) and marketing side (delivery to public) ?

Innovation when managed in serious way, requires focus and time. We have heavily invested over the past 20 years in R&D, specifically for movements. Today, Girard-Perregaux has one of the most comprehensive movement portfolio in the watch industry. Tell me how many watch manufactures have 4 different base calibres and can claim to fit their own movements in nearly 100% of their watches. Beyond this, we have introduced some of the most surprising and innovative concepts in the past years. Our Constant escapement is a genuine revolution in the way to manufacture movements.
Originally we presented an escapement concept/prototype and not a complete movement or a even a watch. It was the result of fundamental research on the regulating organ of the watch. Since then, we have brought several modifications to this escapement concept and in parallel, are developing a movement to be fit with it. Our plan is to present a watch ‘regulated’ with this escapement in 2013 at the latest.

Is GP going to follow the current trend towards innovative and exotic materials within its regular production calibres (for example silicon hairspring and escapment wheel, anchor, etc) ?

We always keep an eye on the future and high-tech materials that could offer interesting opportunities.
Yet, the use of new material has to be meaningful. We do not want to use silicon components for marketing purposes but because it opens new perspectives and because it creates value for our clients. Take the example of our Constant escapement. Developing this concept would have been probably impossible without using silicon. Its strategic component is a silicon blade with a width of 20 microns. The high elastic limit of silicon, its weight and the precision allowed by DRIE technology were key to make things work.

GP is well known for being one of the few true manufacture in high watchmaking. Which is GP’s definition of “Manufacture” ? Is being a Manufacture still important today ? Do you think it is really possible to be a full Manufacture (starting from the last screw to the complete watch) ?

We have invested massively over 20 years to build what is one of the very few genuine manufactures. I believe that the concept of manufacture is linked to a global mastery of all watchmaking crafts and techniques, to an holistic approach of horlogerie, defining, creating, developing and producing. This global approach means added-value for our customers by creating authentic products with a true identity rather than a simple assembly of components. This approach means to constantly overcome challenges to achieve the highest level of quality.
This is why we design and manufacture movements, cases, bracelets, even some dials in-house.
Then, anyone familiar with watchmaking knows perfectly that a watch company cannot produce every single components on its own. For instance, manufacturing a sapphire glass would be a non-sense for us.

Can you anticipate some of next novelties coming from GP ?

We’ll disclose very shortly several novelties, specifically interesting developments for our Girard-Perregaux 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections.

Several watch brands base their marketing strategy on testimonials rather than on heritage values or technical capabilities. This last approach seems to be more recognized among long-time watch fans, while the testimonial-based one seems to target the young people. Did you ever think about having a high-visibility testimonial ?

As explained earlier, our focus has been mainly on our technical skills, our heritage and the unique character of our watches. This is one of the reasons why we have not taken this step so far. Yet, this is something I could be comfortable with as long as it is meaningful, in relation to our expertise.

Can you make a portrait of the typical GP client ?

I believe that one of the common characteristics of GP clients is their interest in the authenticity of our products. They are probably people who perceive the high-value of our watches and self-confident persons.

In the past years we’ve seen a tendency among many watch brands (GP included) to issue limited edition watches.
What is the approach of GP towards limited editions ? Don’t you think that luxury watchmaking should be by definition limited, without stressing that concept ?

Our production is by definition limited. We decide to issue limited edition when we plan from the beginning to manufacture not more than a defined number of watches. Then take the example of the Tourbillon with 3 gold Bridges. Given the level of craftsmanship involved in this manufacturing we produce less than 200 pieces every year, even if most of these are actually not limited editions.

Several watch brands started to work on Iphone apps. What GP thinks of this unusual marketing strategy ? Are we going to see some apps from GP in the future ?

Smartphones are dramatically changing our lives, to the point that I could hardly do without them today. We have developed a playful Iphone app several months ago, connected to the possibilities offered by Iphone, specifically with a try-on function, the opportunity to locate retailers easily or a ‘fun’ Jackpot Tourbillon game. You should try it!

What is GP approach towards the web ? Is there attention to watch forums ? How this new media influences the brand strategy ?

I believe that it is key to implement a 360° strategy with regards to communication and media. The importance of the digital world is more and more important every day and it offers incredible opportunities to connect with people. The presence of Girard-Perregaux on the web will grow inevitably.

One of the recurring topics in REVO-online is concerning customer support when a watch needs service.
Many forumists addressed issues related to timing, accuracy and costs. This seems to be a problem common to many watch brands. What about GP ? which is the policy, the organization, the objectives of customer service ?

Service is a key issues for the future of watch brands. Our manufacture status is also key in this regard. It allows us to retain the ability and expertise to repair watches in-house and we pay attention to pass-on our know-how to the next generation of watchmakers. For every new watch, we make sure to stock parts to be able to repair watches over time. We also have to think of our global presence to develop an efficient network at the international level. Service is not only connected to repairs. It is a state of mind. Clients are the priority, whatever the business.

What is the relationship of GP with other brands ? Is there only competition or also collaboration ?

The competition is global, we can feel it at every level: production, distribution, marketing, etc. This is something we have to work with and it is a source of motivation to overcome new challenges, push the boundaries ever further. Still, this can be faced with excellent relationship and respect with other brands. We collaborate with several brands at various level, for instance manufacturing movements or watches for competitors. I am always curious to face different realities whenever possible. We constantly learn from others.

Recently Mr Macaluso passed away. We have always considered him from an “horological” point of view but I’d like instead to close this virtual interview remembering him and highlighting his human qualities. Is there any episode you recall about him which can let us better understand how the man was ?

We have shared many extraordinary moments and projects, in family life as well as in business: racing rally cars, travelling, visiting art exhibitions and of course working on Girard-Perregaux.
Personally I prefer to remember the design meeting we had every week in La Chaux-de-Fonds for 9 years: we have spent unforgettable hours checking every single detail and proportions of case prototypes, movements finishing, dial indexes of many generations of new GP models.
His style was a mix of Italian culture of design and the sophisticated Swiss Haute Horlogerie tradition.
It has been a school of creativity even beyond the watch industry, it was a philosophy of life based on beauty (“bello” in Italian), art and fine craftsmanship embodied in a few cubic centimeters item.


Best regards from Milano,
slide68



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2011 06:08AM by slide1968.

. . . always wonderful to hear directly from Stefano and a great testimony to GP's openness --and to the sincerity with which it returns the enthusiasm of its fans. A great read.

Jack

Thanks for this great initiative of a virtual interview! It's really nice of GP to accede to this request.
I always view GP as a serious watch manufacturer with great movements. This interview re-affirms my views.
Thanks slide68.

Ciao,

chua
Panerai Forum Moderator

enjoyed the read and indeed, like Jack said, the openness of the brand is giving the fans a good insight about what the brand is doing and what there mission and vision is.

thanks for sharing!

cheers, Wim

Wim K.
Glashütte Original Forum Moderator

Dream as if you'll live forever,
live as if you'll die tomorrow. (James Dean)

el tiempo es la base de nuestra existencia
un día a la vez, siempre cerca de usted